Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Monday, May 26 – Thursday, May 29, 2014

     Overnight in Marahau there was a storm with very strong winds that rocked our campervan and dropped some pretty big raindrops.  In the morning we emerged from the van to see the hilltops covered in snow and realized just exactly what kind of storm happened…this is pretty out of the ordinary considering this area is subtropical in climate.  We were worried it would be too cold for our kayaking trip; however the sun emerged when we finally got the kayaks on the water at about 9am.  Paul and I were in a tandem kayak, and I was a little worried we would just fight the whole day.  It turns out we worked very well together; I watched out for rocks under the water and Paul expertly steered us away from them.  In the morning we kayaked along the coast from Anchorage to Bark Bay.  They had already dropped off our lunch of sandwiches, giant muffins, chip-your-tooth Budget brand chocolate cookies, feijoas, and most importantly, hot drinks.  Four other girls joined us who had been walking the coastal track in the morning and we kayaked up around Tonga Island in the afternoon.  Paul and I saw so much wildlife while kayaking including a little blue penguin, fur seals, a sea star, and native birds.  The little blue penguin was adorable, just floating in the ocean, taking a break from hunting in the sunshine.  We were able to take a hot shower back at the base camp for the kayaking company, then drove the van through the snow-covered mountains to the northern start of the track in Golden Bay, Totaranui. 

     After staying the night in the Totaranui Department of Conservation (DOC) campground, we woke up and packed lunches to walk a portion of the track.  It was an interesting day to say the least…we were fine in the beginning, crossing beaches as they came.  However, from one beach we decided to scramble over the rocks to reach the next beach.  I think it's safe to say we misread our map.  It turns out we should not have done this rock climbing because we ended up stranded on a sandbar.  We had to continue climbing over rocks and fallen trees and mud to re-enter the track.  The bright side is we got to see a sting ray swimming in the inlet.  Once back on the track we realized there was a low tide crossing as part of the normal route, so we took off our shoes and slowly traipsed over all of the empty shells that birds had picked over and waded through the shallowest parts of the inlet water.  I was elated to discover tiny crabs about the size of my big toenail, which walked sideways to run away from our impending footsteps.  We had lunch at a hut, then turned around and walked back to Totaranui.  I loved all the wildlife we saw this day including birds, large and small crabs, various snails attached to sea rocks, the sting ray, a blue sea star, and a tiny-bottom-feeding shark. 

     It was this day that we realized how cold it could get at night.  Usually we drive around during the day and the engine warms up the van.  However, our van had been sitting cold all day while we hiked.  We were huddled under our comforters as soon as the sun went down at 5pm.  We tried to cook rice on our gas burner, but the flame was low and eventually we ran out of LPG.  Therefore, we ate cold sandwiches in the cold van…followed by crunchy rice (because it was warm) for dessert.  I find it ironic that our coldest night of the whole trip was in fact in Abel Tasman National Park, a subtropical climate. 


     The next day it was so difficult to get out of bed in the cold weather.  However, we managed to get up and drive to Takaka to refill our LPG.  We needed a break so we parked the van near a bird sanctuary outside of town by the sea.  We aired out the camper, made crepes for brunch, and had a walk along the shore.  In the afternoon we did the short walk around Te Waikoropupu Springs, or Pupu Springs as the locals call it.  We drove through Nelson, stocked up on groceries, and camped at the Pelorus Bridge campground.  This river was used in some scenes of The Hobbit movies; I think when the orcs were chasing the dwarves in all those barrels down the river.  The next day, on Thursday, we wound our way to Picton and drove our van onto the ferry.  It was so cool to be riding the ferry along with all of those large semis.  Of course it was pouring rain in Wellington soon after we arrived, which made it a bit difficult to get around and find a place to sleep.  We ended up in a parking lot just off the interstate, right beside the sea.  

Sea kayaking at Abel Tasman National Park 

 Sea kayaking

 Lunch break at Bark Bay

Fur seals resting at Tonga Island, part of the marine reserve

 Sunset over Motueka

 Snow in the hills above Abel Tasman National Park

 One of my favorite birds, the Shag

 Just one of the many beautiful shells we encountered on the golden sand beaches of Abel Tasman

 Golden Bay

 Abel Tasman National Park

 Blue sea star, so amazing! 

 A much deserved rest on the beach after a day of hiking

 A seagull staring at the dinner buffet

 Paul being a tourist on the Wellington Ferry;) 

Wellington Ferry, Marlborough Sounds

Thursday, May 22 – Sunday, May 25, 2014

     We left Wanaka early this morning and stopped nearby for breakfast at Lake Hawea.  The drive north from here was beautiful because these two large lakes hug the road as you drive towards Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers.  In the village of Franz Josef we went to the Kiwi Wildlife Center and got to see two seven-month-old kiwi birds in their darkened enclosure.  These were rowi kiwi birds, the rarest of kiwi birds in New Zealand.  Due to invasive predators like possums, rats, cats, dogs and stoats, kiwi numbers have declined dramatically for these nocturnal, flightless birds.  There is a breeding program underway though, and with each kiwi bird couple laying one egg per year, the comeback is slow but steady.  That night we stayed in an awesome holiday park called the Rainforest Resort with a 20 person hot tub (they boasted it was the biggest hot tub on the South Island) and excellent kitchen and shower facilities.  We try to only do holiday parks once every three days, so these times our money is well spent are a rare treat. 

     I was incredibly excited at the prospect of glimpsing my first glacier, but the weather on the West Coast just would not cooperate.  The day we tried to see Franz Josef it rained 150 milimeters.  It rained this much and more the following four days, and as we drove north the rivers were overflowing their banks and rushing towards the sea.  It was therefore disappointing when we reached the Hokitika Gorge, usually flowing with turquoise blue water, was muddy and brown due to the large amounts of rainfall.  However, we still went over the swing bridge and pretended we were Indiana Jones at the end of Temple of Doom…we were not going to let this grey weather, heavy rain, and ridiculous wind get us down!  We had a slightly scary (for me) experience after leaving the gorge, going down a 6 kilometer, gravel, windy road looking for a campground.  When we finally reached the campground it was deserted as were all of the surrounding homes.  It reminded me of that movie “The Happening” and I made Paul drive us to a more populated area to stay the night.  We ended up staying at Lake Mahinapua, right off of the highway south of Hokitika.  In the morning we were getting petrol at the station, and the attendant said it was lucky we were headed north because the road south was closed due to flooding.  Remember how I said there’s only one road to get everywhere in New Zealand?  Now everyone headed south was stuck for a while. 


     Along our drive north we stopped at Punakaiki to see Pancake Rocks and Blowholes.  These layers of limestone were created by shells of sea creatures compacting over time by the movement of tectonic plates. Now the rocks are continually shaped by the ocean waves crashing into them.  It was one of the cooler things we’ve seen in New Zealand thus far!  We kept on truckin’ further north to find a campsite just at dusk at Lake Rotoroa, part of Nelson Lakes National Park.  It was here that the four days of rain ended and we finally caught a tiny glimpse of blue skyJ  I was very surprised when we woke up in the morning the different kinds of birds we heard, hundreds of birds singing.  It was gorgeous and in hindsight I wish I would have used my camera to take a video to record their songs.  We had breakfast by Lake Rotoroa then headed north to Motueka, the gateway to Abel Tasman National Park.  Here we stopped at the iSITE to get information on kayaking and the inter-islander ferry for later this week.  We booked a full day kayaking tour for the morning around the shore of the park, as well as our ferry ticket to take our obnoxious, green campervan across the water to the North Island on Thursday.  

The snout of Franz Josef Glacier...after 150mm of rain

Paul without a rain coat

Typical West Coast weather

Hokitika Gorge after days of ridiculous rain...

...what the Hokitika Gorge usually looks like, with its characteristic turquoise water
(Photo credit:  Graeme Robertson, http://www.new-zealand-pictures.com/2010/05/hokitika-views/)


Hokitika Gorge

The West Coast

Pancake Rocks, Punakaki

Pancake Rocks, Punakaki

Pancake Rocks, Punakaki

Lake Rotoroa, Nelson Lakes National Park

Lake Rotoroa, Nelson Lakes National Park

Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Saturday, May 17 – Wednesday, May 21, 2014

     There is only one road north to Milford Sound, a beautiful two hour drive along 119 kilometers of mountain, valley, and waterfall views.  Along the drive we stopped to see Mirror Lakes where the mountains were reflected in tranquil lakes, as well as The Chasm where the Cleddau River has carved the rocks into interesting, rounded shapes.  At Milford we took a cruise out to the Tasman Sea on the west coast of New Zealand.  The area has about seven meters of rainfall annually, which cascades off the cliffs as waterfalls onto the sea water.  Our guide said that there is about five meters of fresh water on top of the sea water of Milford Sound.  The views of the mountains rising directly out of the sea were amazing.  After our cruise, we found a perfect camping spot right on the beach at Lake Gunn just in time to watch the sunset. 

     We had planned on staying in Milford for a few days but the weather turned south with pouring rain all night.  We packed up early and drove to Queenstown the next day.  Queenstown is set on Lake Wakatipu, with brilliant blue water and snow-capped mountain views.  Something that has really stuck in my memory about New Zealand is how clean their water is; from lakes to rivers, you can generally see to the bottom of the body of water, which is something you cannot relate to in the US.  Our first night in Queenstown we drove on a gravel road out to Moke Lake for camping.  The road had a bunch of cattle stops, an area of metal bars so that the animals cannot escape from their grazing areas.  We had to drive through a field of sheep which were running free everywhere, even on the road.  I’ve never been to Montana, but I imagine this is what it would be like. 

     The next couple of days we took our time to explore Queenstown.  We took the Skyline Gondola up a ski lift to the top of a hill.  Here we could get great views of the city, as well as ride a luge track (no snow, it’s like go-karts without engines) down part of the hill.  We also walked around Queenstown Gardens and the lake.  The evening it was nice to have a meal out down by the waterfront, with wine, duck, steak, and delicious sticky date pudding for dessert.  On our last day in Queenstown we hiked Queenstown Hill, about 500 meters to the summit.  To celebrate this feat of physicality, we promptly rewarded ourselves with ice cream from Patagonia, a New Zealand ice creamery. 

     That afternoon we drove to Wanaka, a town that is the gateway to Mt Aspiring National Park.  It rained all night as we camped by Lake Wanaka.  We were relieved in the morning when the sun came out and we were able to take a hike on the Rocky Mountain track (it was definitely true to its name).  Although it was very difficult for me, it was very rewarding because to one side of the summit you could view Lake Wanaka, and to the other side you could see the snow-covered mountains of Mt Aspiring National Park.  True to form, we rewarded ourselves after this 10 kilometer hike with a tasting at Wanaka Beerworks. 


Mirror Lakes, Milford Road

Road to Milford Sound

The Chasm carved by the Cleddau River, the picture doesn’t do the depth of the chasm justice

Waterfall on Milford Sound

There were rainbows all over Milford Sound

Milford Sound

Kea, the South Island’s native parrot outside of the Milford Sound tunnel

Our camping spot at Lake Gunn, right in the woods beside the lake

Moke Lake camping

A true Frenchman, making crepes in the campervan

Queenstown

Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown

Skyline Gondola view, Lake Wakatipu

Lake Wanaka

View of Mt Aspiring National Park from Rocky Mountain track summit

Tuesday, May 13 – Friday, May 16, 2014

     After breakfast and a walk on the beach we drove from Okains Bay south to Timaru.  It was a good stopping point between Christchurch and Dunedin, as well as being home to my former boss at St James Winery, Andrew.  His parents still live there, and I was able to call them up to arrange a lunch date.  They were so kind to take Paul and me to a brewpub by Caroline Bay.  That afternoon we set out further south to Dunedin and the Otago Peninsula.  Part way there we experienced the first hiccup in our van rental…a flat tire.  It wasn’t just a small flat, but a total blow out.  We were on a busy highway and had to drive a short distance on the rim to get to a safe place to try and change it.  By now it was dark and we were relieved when a nice dairy farmer stopped to help us.  It was determined that we did not have the proper tool to lower the spare tire from under the van.  We had to have roadside assistance (they call it AA here, Automotive Assistance…so funny) come to help us.  It took Coran the mechanic exactly 20 minutes to coax the spare tire out from under the van.  We were very happy to be back on our way to Dunedin.

     I was very excited to go to the Otago Peninsula due to it being home to many different kinds of wildlife including albatross, fur seals, sea lions, and penguins!  One morning we parked our van on a gravel road and hiked to Victoria Beach to try and see some sea lions.  Since it wasn’t breeding season there were none to be had, so we had lunch on the beach and continued to the Royal Albatross Center.  We saw one albatross fly overhead as we were down by the water watching a seal nap on the grass.  That evening we waited until dusk to watch the little blue penguins come ashore.  They were adorable, and could probably fit in my hands.  They would come ashore in pairs or groups, hop from rock to rock until they reached the top of the hill, then waddle away to their nesting areas in the grass.  They were quite vocal, and called out to each other to give the all clear before swimming in.  One penguin was alone on his journey to shore and got nervous with all the people waiting and watching him, because he ran off a rock and jumped into the tall grass like it was a diving board.  The next morning we saw the Dunedin First Presbyterian Church, Railway Station, and had delicious coffee at the Octagon (city center part of town). 

     In the afternoon we started our drive to Milford Sound across the South Island.  We are kind of taking a clockwise approach to seeing the sights, because there is generally one road around the whole island.  It makes it easy to plan the trip though, not so many decisions to make about the itinerary.  By nightfall we had reached Te Anau, the gateway to Milford Sound.  

Caroline Bay, Timaru

Lunch with the Meggitts in Timaru

Unfortunate flat tire..yeah, it's really flat

Victoria Beach, Otago Peninsula

Variable Oystercatchers, Victoria Beach

Sleeping seal, Pilots Beach, Otago Peninsula

He woke up and gave us the stink eye!

Pilots Beach

Little Blue Penguins, the best photo Paul could get

First Presbyterian Church, Dunedin

Railway Station, Dunedin

Sunday, May 11, 2014 & Monday, May 12, 2014

Today we took the Naked Bus from Blenheim to Christchurch.  Our bus driver talked the entire five hour journey about everything under the sun:  New Zealand political history, nature, sea salt production, earthquakes, fur seals, tree species that grow best by the beach…  We finally reached Christchurch at dusk and walked to our hostel.  The next day we took a bus out to the airport to pick up our Juicy condo van.  It has the capacity to sleep four people, but Paul has two large suitcases which account for those two other peopleJ  They would sleep up at the top of the van with about one and a half feet of wiggle room.  We sleep down below where the middle seat pulls out into a bed in conjunction with the two bucket seats.  In the back there is a tiny sink, refrigerator, LPG burner, and a couple of cabinets.  We can actually stand up in it without hitting out heads on the roof! 

     That afternoon we stocked up on groceries and set out for the Banks Peninsula to the east of town by the South Pacific Ocean.  By nightfall we had just reached the sea and ended up camping by Okains Bay near Akaroa.  This area was formed by two volcanic eruptions about 8 million years ago; on a map the peninsula has a characteristic cogwheel shape.  We had the entire beach campground to ourselves that night.  We still were trying to figure out how our campervan worked, and instead took advantage of the kitchen facilities at the campground to cook our dinner.  It was getting cooler at nights so we turned on all the gas burners in the kitchen as a source of heat.  It was a great first night, drinking a bottle of Yealands Pinot Noir and eating our first hot meal on the road. 

Our beautiful home for the next 27 days! 

A typical New Zealand landscape, hills covered with white dots of sheep...

Okains Bay Beach

My favorite New Zealand bird, the Pied Oystercatcher

Post Vintage Travel Updates

Hello, it's been a while since I've posted information here!  Since I've last written I worked eight weeks of harvest at Yealands Estate Winery in the red wine night-shift team in Marlborough.  After vintage was over I rented a campervan with my boyfriend, Paul, and we drove 3,800 kilometers all over New Zealand.  There wasn't much in the way of reliable internet on the road, so these posts are grouped into a few days at a time with updates and pictures of what we were up to.  Enjoy!

Marlborough Vineyards

Marlborough wine tour